How to Read the Range Up Coverage Heatmap

Wi-Fi heatmap explained in plain dBm: what each color band on the Range Up map means, how good a room needs to be for calls or 4K, and how to spot a wall shadow.

This Wi-Fi heatmap explanation begins with one rule: dBm values are negative, so -55 dBm is stronger than -75 dBm. Range Up’s map is a prediction based on your plan, material settings and router position — not a reading from your live Wi-Fi. Use it to compare layout changes, then verify a promising result in the actual room.

Read the six bands by what the room can do#

Band Predicted signal Practical reading
Strong -55 dBm or better Same-room-quality link; demanding work is comfortable
Good -56 to -62 dBm Strong everyday coverage
Fair -63 to -67 dBm Usable; -67 dBm is the practical call/video floor
Weak -68 to -72 dBm Marginal, retries and wobble increase
Poor -73 to -78 dBm Connects but rarely feels reliable
Dead -79 to -90 dBm Effectively no usable coverage
White / unpainted -90 dBm or worse Nothing usable reaches the tile
Every band on one plan. White is not a rendering gap — it is where the model says nothing usable arrives at all.
Every band on one plan. White is not a rendering gap — it is where the model says nothing usable arrives at all.

For video calls, aim for -67 dBm or better; 4K streaming and large uploads are more comfortable around -56 to -60 dBm. A direct dBm measurement has normal 3–5 dB movement, but use the map to compare relative changes under the same assumptions. The dBm chart adds the live-reading context.

Spot the path that made a room fail#

Follow the color path from router to target. A gradual fade usually means distance. A sharp shadow after one wall, fireplace, bathroom or mirror points to an obstacle. Ordinary drywall loses roughly 3–6 dB, interior walls with plumbing 5–8 dB, brick 10–16 dB and reinforced concrete 15–25 dB. The wall guide and Range Up’s wall settings help make that input honest.

Look at the useful place, not a whole room’s average. A desk by a doorway can be Fair while a bed behind a dense wall is Poor. Mark the actual target tile before judging whether a new placement helps. In a multi-floor home, use the 3D view to see whether the shadow lines up with a staircase, slab or vertical masonry core; the multi-floor guide covers that model.

Choose the right response to the band#

A Fair target can often be rescued by a carefully placed second radio. A Poor or Dead target needs a candidate that still hears the router around -60 to -67 dBm, normally on the near side of the worst obstacle. The extender placement guide explains that geometry.

Do not buy a repeater just because a color is orange or red. If the target already paints Good/Fair but real performance is slow, investigate congestion, client hardware or the ISP; the dead-zone explanation separates coverage from those lookalikes. If no candidate has a healthy router link and target reach, use a cable or move the router.

Compare Before and After by the target’s final dBm, not simply by total green coverage. The Before/After guide shows why a +15 dB change ending at -71 dBm is still poor, while a smaller gain that ends at -60 dBm is useful.

Use Range Up to model your home and the full Wi-Fi extender placement guide to translate the map into hardware choices.

Make a five-pass reading before changing hardware#

First locate the router and check that nearby open tiles are Strong or Good; otherwise the drawing may have a wall on the router or an implausibly heavy material setting. Next, follow the color falloff along the route to the target. Then look for sharp shadows that align with a wall, floor or dense object rather than assuming distance is to blame.

Fourth, compare the target to what it needs. A guest room used only for browsing can tolerate Fair; a daily work desk or 4K television benefits from Good. Finally, test a realistic change — router move, one outlet or a wired node — and compare the target’s final band. Do not use a house-wide coverage percentage to hide a still-poor office.

The map cannot see furniture placement, traffic load or the live wireless environment. Its stable strength is that it lets you compare the same geometry under several changes. Confirm a winner in the real room before deciding it is a permanent fix.

Frequently asked questions#

What do the colors on a Wi-Fi heatmap mean?

They are predicted signal bands from Strong (-55 dBm or better) through Dead (-79 to -90 dBm). White means worse than -90 dBm, where the model predicts nothing usable.

Is -70 dBm bad Wi-Fi?

It is marginal. A device may connect, but retries rise and real-time calls or video become less reliable. Aim for -67 dBm or better where reliability matters.

Does the Range Up heatmap measure my real Wi-Fi?

No. It is a floor-plan simulation. It does not scan networks or read live RSSI; use the result to compare positions and verify the final setup in person.

How much should a heatmap improve after an extender?

Focus on the target’s final signal. About 10–20 dB is often meaningful if it leaves the target at -67 dBm or better and the extender retains a healthy router link.

Find your dead zone, then fix it

Range Up turns a two-minute floor-plan sketch into a room-by-room coverage map and the best spot for your extender.